[nginx] How do you change the server header returned by nginx?

According to nginx documentation it supports custom values or even the exclusion:

Syntax: server_tokens on | off | build | string;

but sadly only with a commercial subscription:

Additionally, as part of our commercial subscription, starting from version 1.9.13 the signature on error pages and the “Server” response header field value can be set explicitly using the string with variables. An empty string disables the emission of the “Server” field.