This has been answered for the most part, but I will expand...
Step 1
My goal was to enable zoom at certain times, and disable it at others.
// enable pinch zoom
var $viewport = $('head meta[name="viewport"]');
$viewport.attr('content', 'width=device-width, initial-scale=1, maximum-scale=4');
// ...later...
// disable pinch zoom
$viewport.attr('content', 'width=device-width, initial-scale=1, maximum-scale=1, user-scalable=no');
Step 2
The viewport tag would update, but pinch zoom was still active!! I had to find a way to get the page to pick up the changes...
It's a hack solution, but toggling the opacity of body did the trick. I'm sure there are other ways to accomplish this, but here's what worked for me.
// after updating viewport tag, force the page to pick up changes
document.body.style.opacity = .9999;
setTimeout(function(){
document.body.style.opacity = 1;
}, 1);
Step 3
My problem was mostly solved at this point, but not quite. I needed to know the current zoom level of the page so I could resize some elements to fit on the page (think of map markers).
// check zoom level during user interaction, or on animation frame
var currentZoom = $document.width() / window.innerWidth;
I hope this helps somebody. I spent several hours banging my mouse before finding a solution.